One of the first things people notice when they see my Malamute eat is the quantity — or rather, the lack of it. "That's all he gets?" is a common reaction. Yes. That's all he gets.

The Malamute is one of the most energy-efficient dog breeds in existence. This isn't an accident — it's the result of thousands of years of selection in an environment where food was scarce and the work was relentless. Understanding this is the starting point for feeding your dog well.

The efficiency paradox

A Malamute and a Labrador of the same weight don't need the same calories. The Malamute's metabolism has been fine-tuned to extract maximum energy from minimum input. This makes it an extraordinarily capable working dog — and an extraordinarily easy dog to overfeed.

An overweight Malamute is a dog heading for problems: increased stress on joints already predisposed to dysplasia, reduced thermoregulation efficiency, higher cardiovascular load. The cost of keeping your Malamute lean is essentially zero. The cost of managing the consequences of obesity is significant.

Default principle: slightly less than the packaging suggests is usually closer to correct than the suggested amount.

How to assess weight without scales

Body Condition Score (BCS) is more useful than a number on a scale:

  • Too thin: ribs visible without touching
  • Correct: ribs easily felt but not visible, visible waist from above, abdomen tucks up from the side
  • Overweight: ribs difficult to feel through fat, no visible waist

Do this assessment monthly. It takes thirty seconds and tells you more than any scale reading.

Feeding frequency

Puppies (up to 6 months): 3-4 meals per day. Small stomach, fast growth, constant energy needs.

Adolescents (6-12 months): 2-3 meals per day. Growth is slowing but metabolism is still elevated.

Adults (18 months+): 2 meals per day — morning and evening. Avoid single daily meals with large breeds: it reduces the risk of bloat (gastric dilatation-volvulus), a life-threatening condition to which large deep-chested dogs are susceptible.

Allow at least one hour before and after meals before any vigorous exercise. This is not negotiable with a large breed.

Reading a dog food label

If you're feeding kibble — which is perfectly fine if the quality is good — here's what to actually look for:

First ingredients: named animal proteins should be at the top (chicken, salmon, beef, lamb). Not "meat derivatives" or "cereals" as the primary ingredient.

Protein percentage: minimum 26-28% for adults, 28-30% for puppies. Higher than this is fine for active dogs.

Avoid: artificial colours, artificial preservatives (BHA, BHT, ethoxyquin), excessive fillers.

Grain-free isn't automatically better: what replaces the grains matters. Some grain-free foods use legumes heavily, which has been associated with cardiac issues in some breeds. If you want grain-free, choose a brand with proper nutritional research behind it.

Manufacturer's portion guide: always treat as a starting point, not an instruction. Reduce by 15-20% and adjust based on monthly BCS assessment.

Raw feeding: worth it?

BARF (Biologically Appropriate Raw Food) involves raw meat, edible bones, organs and vegetables in balanced ratios. The advantages are real — high-quality protein, no ultra-processing, excellent coat condition in most dogs.

I tried it for four months. My dog was thriving — the coat in particular was noticeably better. I stopped for practical reasons (time, storage, travel), not because it wasn't working. If you're considering it, consult a veterinary nutritionist rather than building your own recipe from scratch. Getting the calcium-to-phosphorus ratio wrong over time causes real problems.

Supplements: what's actually useful

A healthy adult on quality food doesn't need supplements. The ones I use:

Omega-3 fish oil: good evidence for coat quality, joint health and cognitive function. A tablespoon on the food daily. Use fish oil, not flaxseed oil — dogs don't convert ALA to EPA/DHA efficiently.

Glucosamine and chondroitin: I use these preventatively given the breed's predisposition to joint issues. The scientific evidence is mixed but the risk profile is essentially zero.

Everything else — vitamins, probiotics, joint supplements beyond the above — discuss with your vet based on your specific dog's needs and bloodwork.